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SE QLD: Late Autumn, 2008

SE QLD Sth swell magnets have been on fire late in autumn
The Gold Coast has experienced a great run of fine weather and fun, clean waves during the last month or so of autumn. The swells have been from the SSE to SE, mostly in the 2-4ft range and the sandbanks have been groomed to near perfection by the S swells we’ve enjoyed late in autumn. There have been plenty of fun sessions on the points, but the S swell magnets like South Straddie and D’bah have been on fire, particularly on the smaller days.


Epic A frame back on May 6Photo: Shield

The extra size and punch that TOS and D’bah have at this time of the year is due to them being so open to the S swells that have been generated way down Sth in the Tasman Sea. The swell lines run across deep water river mouths before they jack up and explode on shallow, tightly packed sandbanks close to the shore. Morning offshore SW winds with light SSE seabreezes later in the day have been the staple, and the water has been crystal clear at around 21-22 degrees. - JC


D'bahPhoto: Shield


Mick slotting in at D-bah on May 21.

Bede Durbidge
"I've been having some of the funnest surfs at Straddie lately. It's been breaking down the beach and really hollow. It's been good crowd wise because there's banks right up and down the beach splitting up the people. Looks like it's shaping up to be a really good winter over there. I'm pretty excited."

Bede at Straddie on a clear autumn's dayPhoto: Shield

Adam Bennetts
The last month or so over at TOS has been pretty epic.We have had some solid swells with good winds all day and it hasn't been too crowded.

One of the most memorable sessions was ANZAC day. I caught a lift with my mate in his boat and walked across the island to meet up with Shieldsy and a bunch of the boys who all knew it was gonna be on. I packed my own lunch because I knew we would probably be staying all day.


TOS doing a mighty fine Pipeline impression April 25.Photo: Shield

As soon as I walked over the dunes I was greeted by perfect 6 - 8 foot waves and I looked further up the beach where Shieldsy had parked his boat and saw Owen Wright get an amazing backside no hands barrel.

I ran down frothing and by the time I had gotten ready, Fanning had already nailed 3 or 4 insane ones and Owen scored an even better no hands backside pit.

Considering the calibre of crew that was out, which consisted of Fanning, Brenno, Vassa (who snapped his board first wave), Samba, Owen, my brother Ibis, Hazza and the normal locals who dominate out there, it actually wasn't that hard to get a good one. Besides it could have been way more crowded if it wasn't ANZAC day, but i'm pretty sure everyone was hanging out at one of the many RSL's on the coast.


Adam Bennetts perfectly positioned in a TOS pit on April 25.Photo: Shield

We ended up staying until 4pm and everyone was pretty well spent, especially Scotty Wilden who had been there since 6am, only having a muesli bar in his stomach which he ate before he paddled over early that morning.

We were on the way back in Shieldsy's boat, and of course everyone wanted a lift cause they could barely walk, let alone paddle the seaway, when Owen and Ibis had come back for the late one. Matty Gye who was filming all day and Shieldsy both got excited at how frothin' Owen looked and so we ended up dropping everyone off and I went back to surf till dark.

The late session was probably the pick, as there was probably only 10 guys over there and it was probably the best it was all day and the afternoon light was amazing!

This was the best ANZAC day I had ever had, and I bet anyone who was on the drink and sees any photos from that day will be pretty bummed! - Adam Bennetts


Owen Wright grabbing his rail and pulling in.


Brent Dorrington...Photo: Shield


...racing towards photographer Shieldsy in a sick Straddie cavern on Anzac day

Josh Downthwaite
The banks along the Gold Coast beachies have been the best in a long time and there are so many of them, which is why the crowds haven't been that bad in the surf, especially Sth Straddie! Anzac day was pretty special and there's been at least half a dozen really good days since. There's nothing better then heading over to Straddie with the boys, finding a peak, and getting stand up barrels without really trying. Plus it's only the start of the season, which means there are plenty of waves, west winds and crisp winter days to look forward to just around the corner! BOOM - JD

It doesnt get any better. May 6Photo: Shield


Jay Quinn sitting in a straddie cave on May 20Photo: Shield


Josh Downthwaite May 26.

Samba Mann
On Anzac day while most people are paying their respects at various ceremonies and playing 2up, me and a few mates ventured over the seaway to find the closest thing to Pipeline in Australia! Everyone broke a board, my board lasted 3 hours before i got smoked by a big set and watched in horror as it turned into dust! Consequently i had to sit on the beach and watch as some of the most perfect waves i have ever laid my eyes on peel in every direction up and down the beach.. Believe me not a fun thing to do when its pumping i ended up rubbing sand in my eyes so i couldn't watch it anymore. - SB

Samba bottom turning on a bomb.Photo: Shield


Mick grabbing his rail and pigdogging into a pit.Photo: Shield


Adam B eyeing off where he wants to be seeking some shade down the line.Photo: Shield


Clint Kimmins pitted on May 27.


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