An Investigation Into Indonesian Medical Cabinets
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Words: Anthony Walsh
Pictures: Andrew Shield
From the latest issue of Australia's Surfing Life - Out now!
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It’s that time of year again, when everyone in the world flocks to Bali to get barrelled, hammered, have their hair braided and then get massaged till they’re better. Whatever you want, whenever you want it. But this wasn’t to be a Bali trip. Spotting what looked like the best swell of the season so far, I messaged photographer extraordinaire Andrew Shield to see what was doing. “ASL are making a run to West Sumbawa,” said Shieldsy, and without really knowing much about the place I told him to count me in. Making up our crew was Wade Goodall, Shaun Cansdell, Jock Barnes and tag-alongs Adam Bennetts and Josh Dowthwaite, young grubs already in Bali and keen to broaden some horizons.
| | Adam Bennets Epic early morning light at Scar. | Photo: Shield |
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Those of us still in Oz scrambled for flights and accommodation, got ourselves to Bali, checked into our hotels, and after a round of nasi gorengs, headed for bed. We woke next morning to a phone call from a hospital telling us that one of our friends, “Joe Barnez”, was in their emergency ward. Not knowing how he got there or what condition he was in, we scrambled for the international hospital in Kuta to find Jock. Wade, who had a massive hangover from a combo of alcohol, antibiotics and pashing a below average French girl, was obviously in pain, but it was nothing compared to what Jock was going through. We walked in and found him on a drip with a huge gash to the head, in a neck brace and with cuts and bruises all over. He had no memory of anything after going to bed, and woke up in the hospital about 10 minutes before we got there. “The security guys at the hotel heard a loud thud,” said Barnesy, “then they found me on the ground.” He’d fallen from his balcony three stories up, and whether he was sleep walking and slipped, or whether he was pushed, the poor bastard really couldn’t say.
| | Wade Goodall slotted with Cansdell looking on | Photo: Shield |
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Barnesy kept asking about later flights, telling us he’d meet us over there, but we told him he wasn’t going anywhere in a hurry. He must have been in shock and was drugged out on a lot of painkillers. We did everything we could; calling his parents and contacting the insurance company and friends in Bali, but it didn’t seem like it was enough, and when we left, Shieldsy even left his credit card behind in case Jock needed anything he couldn’t pay for. With Jock in good hands we said our goodbyes and left to make our flight to Lombok, one man down.
| | Shaun Cansdell, Forehand carve | Photo: Shield |
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The flight from Bali to Lombok took 20 minutes, which was quick compared to Adam and Josh’s slog, driving two hours and catching a ferry for five to get to the same town. World Surfaris organized our travel arrangements so everything went nice and smooth up to the two hour drive through Lombok, which has a very similar landscape to Bali with hundreds of rice paddies and lush, green-covered mountains. We arrived at the ferry and hauled our equipment aboard.
The first thing that hit me was the smell of cat piss below the deck. The second thing, walking up the stairs, was feeling like someone just rammed a packet of cigarettes down my throat. Eventually we arrived at Sumbawa and dragged our stuff off the piss-riddled, cancer-inflicting vessel to drive the last leg of the trip across the island. Sumabawa has a dryer landscape than neighboring Bali and Lombok. Parts of the road on the west coast run right along the cliffs and the views are spectacular; cliffs meeting the beaches, hundreds of bays filled with mini islands … some definite Kodak moments.
| | Josh Dowthwaite Scar Reef | Photo: Shield |
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Our welcome to the camp was provided by six guard-dogs wanting to rip our throats out. Leigh, the owner, told us some stories about the locals coming to steal things from the camp, so had bought a bunch of extremely unfriendly dogs, and found that nothing had happened since. The camp was mindblowing. I’d assumed the setup would be very basic, dodgy and dirty but it was the opposite. Spacious, clean, secure, and the staff were the biggest legends. With no swell yet we spent the arvo playing table tennis, watching cable TV, having a few drinks and watching the sunset. Oh so romantic … too bad it was with five dudes. Dinner was epic and it was the perfect finish to the first day of our trip.
| | SuperSuck line up | Photo: Shield |
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With my body clock not yet on Indo time I was already awake when I heard the Muslim call to prayer, being played kilometers away on the best sound system in Sumbawa at 4.20 next morning. It must have been bloody loud where it was playing; I’d hate to be the neighbors getting a wake up call everyday.
The waves looked three foot and still marginal on the reef we were chasing so we cruised and had breakfast. While eating we saw some random 4-5 foot sets that looked fun, so the captain got the boat ready, a craft that used a whipper-snipper with a propeller at the end for an engine! We got out there for our first surf and the waves were fun; a few barrels but it was mostly turn and punt sections.
Bennetts and Josh finally arrived from their monster drive from Bali. Turns out when they got to Sumbawa they were so lost they waved down a Eurodude on a motorbike and asked him for directions. Before they got anything out of him a local bloke came flying around the corner and ran straight into him, totalling both bikes. The boys got out of the car to find the poor local flung miles into the thorn bushes, grabbing at his knee. They were both okay considering what had just happened but Benny and Dowthy had to bail without directions as they couldn’t hold in the laughter any longer. Ten minutes after the boys finally found the pad the Euro walked in. Turned out he was mates with Leigh and could have given the boys directions to the door!
| | Josh Dowthwaite late arvo Scar Reef | Photo: Shield |
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By this time it had picked up; picture-perfect with 6-8 foot bombs rolling in. Goodall didn’t have the best surf of his life, snapping two boards and having to swim in each time as the boat was now out of commission. On dark, Cansdell lost another board after not getting around a section on a solid eight-foot beast. Everyone got their share of barrels on this crazy wave. You’d take off, lock yourself in to a solid barrel then fade into another section that would run a little faster down the reef. On the last section you would either pull off or go for it, meaning a super fast, risky barrelling section that doesn’t let you out till you’re past the reef. If you don’t make it you’re pushed straight up onto dry reef, giving up some skin to feed the fish along the way. Everyone got their share of beatings, but the barrels made it more than worth it, and after another classic feed and a few more beers everyone went to bed dreaming of the perfect day they’d just experienced…
To read the rest of the story and see more shots, check out surfinglife.com.au/extras
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From the latest ASL: the Indian Ocean Issue - Out Now!
From Bali to The Box this mag has got the best of it. Chuck in Yadin's insane turn on the cover, a Steph Gilmore Profile and all the action from Bali and points beyond. Plus there's a crazy Billabong DVD with all the action from Chopes. Yes, that's in the Pacific Ocean, but the DVD's sick. What were we gunna do; not give it to you? What are you waiting for?
Get your copy now! www.surfinglife.com.au
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