| Indo swell journal. April 14–19, 2009 |
|
A great week of waves on both sides of the Bukit.
North Sumatra April 14 – 19, 2009.
|
Bali April 14 – 19, 2009.
What a great week of fun waves we have enjoyed all over the island. Both sides of the Bukit had some uncrowded morning surfs for the early hunters. The east and west coasts offered plenty too. On Tuesday April 14 we were hit by a solid 5-foot swell that lit up the reefs all over the island. There were plenty of barrels on offer. We enjoyed glassy morning conditions on most days this week, before light to moderate trade winds kicked in around lunchtime. Days were hot and cloudy,some nights were wet.
Uluwatu was pretty crowded, but there were enough waves on offer across all the sections allowing most surfers to score. The Outer reefs off Kuta broke for a few days, and finally a few banks are starting to form on the beachies at Kuta and Legian.
Team riders from Rusty and Waves photog Bosko scored plenty of images along Bali’s east coast, while the Volcom crew hit Lakey’s at Sumbawa.
The outlook for the week ahead looks really good and by Thursday it should be pumping on all of the reefs in Bali. Solid size waves and light winds again throwing up plenty of options.
Tuesday April 14, 2009.
Great waves on offer everywhere. East coast crowded Keramas 3-5 feet and Uluwatu in the same size range. Canggu in the perfect 4-5 foot range and all breaks firing. The pick of the Bukit was Bingin throwing up a few 3-foot barrels, while Balangan and Impossibles big enough to get a few guys frothing. Glassy conditions most of the day. Rusty team riders on fire!
Wednesday April 15, 2009.
Swell has dropped and the punch has gone from the day before’s swell. Still some great fun waves everywhere though. Rainy day on the east coast keeping the winds down.
Thursday April 16, 2009.
Swell the same again today and some junky waves in the afternoon for those who didn’t hit it early on the east coast. Trade winds making for super clean Ulu and Kuta beachies.
Friday April 17, 2009.
Swell just keeps hanging in. Crowds seem to be mellower as most surfers continue to get there fill of waves. Great glassy day and sunny too.
Saturday April 18, 2009.
Keramas and Canggu highly rippable today. Ulu’s doing it’s thing in the 3-4 foot range as it has been all week but crowded in the 80 guys range.
Sunday April 19, 2009.
Swell just hanging around the 3-foot range at most breaks but in the 4-6 foot range at Nusa Dua with trade winds kicking in around lunch. Plenty of hangover surfers and expats watching from the beach.
– Jason Childs.
| | East coast early morning 3 foot swell saw pumping 5 foot sets by midday. Japanese pro getting his close out barrel shot at the carpark. | Photo: Jason Childs |
|
| 
| | Aussie Reef team rider Josh Dowthwaite making the most of his last Bali day. | Photo: Jason Childs |
|
| 
| | The Carpark grinding and spitting on Balis east coast. | Photo: Jason Childs |
|
| 
| | Straight swell lines pump through the reef at Nusa Dua for those guys wanting some serious waves in the 5 foot plus range mid morning. | Photo: Jason Childs |
|
| 
| | Larger set wave catching everyone out of position at Nusa Dua mid afternoon. | Photo: Jason Childs |
|
| 
| | Aussie Rusty team rider Jay Davies boosting somewhere on the east coast. | Photo: Made/Childs |
|
| 
| | Quiksilver Bali team rider Tipi Jabrik loving life out of the office. | Photo: Made/Childs |
|
| 
| | Rip Curl Balis team rider Pepen Hendrik from Kuta enjoying Balis rights. | Photo: Made/Childs |
|
| 
| | Balis Rusty team rider Marlon Gerber flaring with the Rusty crew. | Photo: Made/Childs |
|
| 
| | Balis glamour boy Marlon Gerber flying high. | Photo: Made/Childs |
|
| 
| | Bali Rusty rider Made Awan showing the Japanese boyz how to ride the tube at Keramas. | Photo: Jason Childs |
|
| 
| | Closeout barrels for the photosluts. East coast beach break. | Photo: Jason Childs |
|
| 
| | Balis Dede Santosha tube travel time on the east coast. | Photo: Jason Childs |
|
| 
| | Empty beach breaks for those who want to pull in. | Photo: Jason Childs |
|
| 
| | Rainy and glassy barrels at Keramas for the pros and the punters. | Photo: Made/Childs |
|
|
|
Mentawai Surf Report April 13-20
Swell Surprise in the Mentawais
Following on from last weeks smaller conditions, the run of fun waves has continued in the Mentawais, bolstered by an unexpected beefy swell hitting late in the week and finally bringing some solid size in the the area. It's been a suprising week of waves, with a thumping west swell sneaking in under the radar and turning an otherwise fun week of surf into something special.
The week started with small, clean waves at the more exposed spots - Nipussi and Burgerworld had the most size, and clean winds from the NW meant some fun and rippable walls. There's been a few groms staying at Pitstop Hill and they've been in seventh heaven, loving the the medium sized swells.
A decent bump in the swell was due to arrive from the west on Wednesday April 15, but never really materialised at the usual west swell spots. If anything, the swell seemed to be marching in from a more southerly direction, bringing waves to Playgrounds, Nipussi and Bankvaults.
Thursday morning saw the swell kicking into breaks that prefer westerly swells, and Hideaways and Pitstops had some size, though the waves lacked proper power.
Friday morning dawned and took us all by suprise. Solid swell was thumping into Pitstops out the front, with the odd set lighting up a rarely surfed left nearby. E-Bay, Hideaways and NoKandui all had great clean waves, but lacking the size and consistency we'd normally associate with a swell of this size. Pitstops cleaned up throughout the day and pumped into the evening, with an epic sunset providing a very memorable backlit session.
We went to bed that night listening to the swell thump in, unsure if what dawn might bring. As Saturday woke up, there was still plenty of size in the swell, but morning sickness and light southwest winds meant that most breaks failed to clean up and show their true potential. Still, there were plenty of solid waves to be found, and everyone was till amping from this unexpected kick in the swell - the first proper west swell in several weeks.
Next week is looking the goods - a decent west swell is due to arrive on Monday and something very hefty is lining up for next Wednesday/Thursday.
– Kate Gerson.
| | A left unloads down a rarely surfed corner on Friday morning | Photo: photogerson.com |
|
| 
| | Glorious backlit Pitstops on Friday evening | Photo: photogerson.com |
|
| 
| | Grommets delight. A left rattles down the reef last Monday | Photo: photogerson.com |
|
| 
| | Jay Seeber in a Saturday morning bowl | Photo: photogerson.com |
|
| 
| | Tight tail whip. Saturday 17th | Photo: photogerson.com |
|
| 
| | Perfect Bankvaults on Sunday April 20 | Photo: photogerson.com |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Wind, tides, UV ratings, air temps and outlook provided by
