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Indo Swell Journal. May 11-17, 2009

The week in Bali, Ment’s and Sumatra. Vid and photo highlights


North Sumatra video journal


Bali May 11-17, 2009


All in all it was a pretty good week of waves in Bali, there was still some funky weather around, and some chocolate barrels to be had. We generally saw a return to some great early season conditions with light winds and waves on both sides of the island firing in the 3-4 feet range on the reefs and up on the Bukit Peninsula for a few days. The highlight of the week was a 2-day swell that peaked around the 3-4 ft mark on the Bukit reefs, Kuta/Airports reefs and East coast reefs mid week. Then the swell seemingly disappeared with the outgoing tide on Friday afternoon.

The standout performer of the week was Julian Wilson. He pulled off the craziest front side airs every afternoon at Canggu rights.

Rusty’s “Rumble in Da Jungle” contest was completed in pretty good 3-4 feet waves on the East coast of Bali. Dede Suryana from West Java, the reigning ISC 2008 champ won the event. Former ASP world tour pro surfer Jake Patterson took out the Masters division.

The outlook- The early part of the week is expected to be very small, with a new swell building mid week ahead of some of the biggest waves of the season expected to arrive late in the week and run through the weekend.

Monday May 11, 2009
Slow start to the morning with rain, grey skies and a small 2-foot swell. As the tide kicked in towards the midday high tide a new swell arrived and by late afternoon the swell was in the 3-4 foot range at Canggu. Balian was very crowded. There wasn’t many waves for surfers who didn’t have a longboard. It was 3-4 feet and glassy.

Tuesday May 12, 2009
Swell is the same size again-3 feet on both sides of the island, but there was more bloody rain about. The only good thing was the rain it’s kept the trade winds down, keeping the surf nice and glassy. Canggu was the pick of the spots again all day.

Wednesday May 13, 2009
The expected new swell arrived with the morning king tide, making for great waves all over the island. Canggu was again the pick of the spots. It was 3-4 feet and great all day. The Sandbar offered the goofy footers great value in the afternoon. There was finally some sunny skies and light winds. Just another great day in Bali.

Thursday May 14, 2009
The swell was slightly bigger today. There were some decent waves on the Kuta/Airport and Bukit reefs in the 3-4 foot range. Canggu was bigger-a solid 4 feet. There were some good waves ahead of the strong afternoon trades. The East Coast was in the 4 feet range, plenty of spots were decent before the trades kicked in. There were also some great waves on the Legian beachies with the king tides. The Peak at Ulu was good and Racetracks was good at low tide low tide for the goofy footers. Pick of the day was Impossibles at low tide for the old boyz on their big boards.

Friday May 15, 2009
Dropping swell. Canggu was only in the 2-3 feet range with the odd bigger set. There were some small waves on the East Coast as well. Funky light winds swinging around on the island.

Saturday May 16, 2009
Just in time for the weekend the swell is gone. It was a good Saturday night to get on it and recover in front of the tv on the couch on Sunday.

Sunday May 17, 2009
Tiny waves at Canggu and the beachies at Legian and Kuta. Good longboarding day.

– Jason Childs


Aussie Quiksilver team whiz kid Julian Wilson pulling off just one of many crazy front side airs at Canggu rights.Photo: Childs


Super smooth Quiksilver surfer Craig Anderson from Oz styling through a turn at Canggu rights.Photo: Childs


Queenslander Jamie Thompson enjoying the Bali days at Canggu sandbar high tide shuffle.Photo: Childs


Aussie Craig Anderson late afternoon golden turn at Canggu rights.Photo: Childs


Empty joy somewhere on Bali's East coast.Photo: Childs


A long drive on the crazy roads of Balis West coast makes it all worth the while if ya score Balian on.Photo: Childs


Balian crowded and full of hungry longboarders on a small day in Bali.Photo: Childs


If ya want to see some girls ripping the surf up in Bali they are always at Canggu doing their thing now.Photo: Childs


Hawaiian surfer Akila Aipa showing how to surf a twin fin with style at Keramas.Photo: Childs


Aussie Julian Wilson getting in some tube riding practice before heading to surfers paradise, The Mentawais, for a month of bliss.Photo: Childs


The Sandbar at Canggu raining and windy but still firing.Photo: Childs


The Sandbar at Canggu on another day-early morning perfection.Photo: Childs


Business as usual early morning on Balis East coast.Photo: Childs


Empty glassy lineups for those who want the dawn perfection on the East coast.Photo: Childs


The East coast of Bali firing for anyone who wants to search.Photo: Childs


Gary from the Big Island of Hawaii loving going right in Bali on the East coast.Photo: Childs


Bali expat getting some surf time in paradise. Canggu.Photo: Childs


East coast reef throwing up some solid rights for the regular footers.Photo: Childs


Late afternoon gold at Canggu rights.Photo: Childs


Beautiful girl, Canggu sunsetPhoto: Childs

North Sumatra. May 11 – 17, 2009.


It was an interesting week of equatorial weather with everything from raging storms through to bright sunny days. The reporting period started with great fun waves and a bit of north wind. The wind gained strength mid week. It was victory at sea in the unprotected areas and the harbor at Padang and Sickacap actually closed at one stage. The surf remained in the 4-5 foot range for most of the period, spiking at 6 feet during the afternoon on May 15. The wind is out of the east now and a solid swell is due to start showing today (Monday May 17). In summation last week was a great week of rights and hopefully a blast of wind and swell will fire up the lefts this week.

– Shane Peel.


Dave Simons off the top on Tuesday.Photo: Peel


The swell starting to provide on the 14th.Photo: Peel


Entry to the funpark on the 15th.Photo: Peel


Despite the weather there has still been time to nail the odd fish.Photo: Peel




The peak of the swell in the front yard at Telo Lodge on the 15th.Photo: Peel

Mentawais May 11-17, 2009.


Wet Season returns to the Mentawais

Wild and stormy weather returned to the Mentawais last week, with persistent storms and rain. After the last three weeks of pumping waves we were due for a run of bad luck, and most of the week was spent sheltering from strong winds and rainy conditions.

The week started off well, with clean sunny conditions and a fresh west well. Although the swell wasn't as big and consistent as we'd hoped, there were plenty of barrels and solid drops to be found.

Howling northwest winds started howling on Monday evening, and Tuesday morning broke stormy, raining and blown out. The stormy conditions continued through until Thursday. Bunkering down between the storms and trying to sneak short surfs in between the squalls was the order of the day. The Mentawais are famed for consistently light winds and clean conditions, but we had none of these for a few days, with whitecaps and rain as far as the eye can see, and a slowly diminishing swell.

By Friday and Saturday, the wet conditions started to break and the sun started to shine through with fun clean waves at selected locations. By Sunday the run of bad weather was over - sunshine and light winds prevailed.

The week ahead is looking promising. A medium west swell is due to arrive on Monday, and a larger SW swell on Friday looks set to deliver some serious size.

– Kate Gerson.


Evening glow early in the week.Photo: Gerson


Solid drop on Monday.Photo: Gerson


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Uluwatu: October 12, 2009
Indo: Sept 28 – Oct 4, 2009.
Indonesia: Java to Bali Swell Forecast
Indo: Sept 21 - 27, 2009.

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