It’s that time of year again when all surfing eyes drift north toward the wave rich locales of Indonesia. By early indications it’s totally warranted.
There are a couple of things I am going to discuss here, - the main one is the public perception of the “SEASONS” in Indonesia.
Indonesia just like Australia is a pretty big place and the difference between Timor and Aceh and all in between is not just cultural, it’s seasonal.
For many years the surfing public was under the perception that Indo was Bali, and it was only surfable in June, July and August. Information about Bali was a word of mouth thing and until recent times that was the only time to go if you wanted to get waves.
This has been changing in recent years as word started to filter back about the amazing wet season waves “On the other side” and a select few places like “Golden Monkey” now known as Keramas and a few other world class breaks we’re surfed by few because of the perception that Bali’s shit in the wet season. These days that perception has altered and Bali is a year round surfing destination - it’s just the breaks you ride are different.
As you travel further and further north the whole seasonal thing becomes less relevant until you strike the equatorial regions where it is practically non - existent. Sure the biggest wave heights are recorded in June, July and August most of the time, but the other months of the year are where the gold lies.
Have a look at the Mentawais for example. Some of the more reputable charter boats run all year round, you reckon they do this so they can burn a bit more fuel? Truth is the months of November, December, Jan and Feb produce amazing waves and can sometimes be better than the favoured Australian winter months.
A quick blast around the various gallery sections of the operators who run year round in Indonesia will reveal this pretty clearly and probably the most obvious feature of said images is the shortage of surfers in the pics because it’s uncrowded.
The surf in February 2010 has supported the theory. During mid Feb I was speaking to a surfer in Australia who was scared to come over to Indo until mid year in case “I get skunked cause it’s early season” yet at the same time he was downloading a pic my friend had sent him of perfect rifling waves in North Sumatra that day.
The truth of the matter is that setting a date and heading off on a surf trip is always going to be a hit and miss affair cause swells just don’t seem to run to any real schedule. Sure July might have two epic 10 foot swells but March often has five great 3-5 foot swells. You may score the biggest HT’s ever in August, but October may break every day at 4 foot. There are no rules - the further you travel toward the middle of the planet the less definition between the seasons there is.
So what’s in store for 2010? I guess that’s the question any surfer who is planning an Indo trips this year wants answered.
Coastalwatch chief forecaster Ben Macartney is set to start posting his weekly forecasts for the region every Thursday from this week through to October.
There is a strong El Nino running in the Pacific but it’s effects on the Indian Ocean are negligible, there has been plenty of storm activity in the Mid Indian and any week now we can expect to see a strong swell blast up through the Southern Ocean.
One thing we do know is that the worlds best long period swells hit Indonesia, they have for eons and they will continue to do so.
Coastalwatch will be bringing you comprehensive reports out of Indonesia every week and sometimes daily when conditions warrant updating. Stay tuned.
– Shane Peel.
A perfect empty cavern from the 2009 dry season.
Photo: Peel.
Owen schacked.
Photo: Peel.
The reason why we Aussies keep trecking through Indo. Pit time.
Photo: Peel
As you can see by this selection of photos – it is not all lefts in Indo.
Photo: Peel.
Wilco deep.
Photo: Peel
Bali March 1- 7, 2010.
Welcome back to the Bali/Indo report. All in all a below par wet season surf season. Only the odd day of swell over 4 feet, throw in a few flat swells and crowds we had a season to forget. Where did the rain go? Probably the driest wet season on record for Bali. We should be grateful for the fantastic weather and blue skies all the way through from the start of the wet season in Nov. Has the wets season finished, maybe. Already in February we’ve seen a few days of the SE trade winds blowing before swinging back to the usual winds for this time of the year.
Record numbers of surfers as well for this time of the year. Most of them escaping the winter in Europe. Large numbers of Russians and Germans wanting to become a surfer and wrecking havoc in the line-ups learning to surf. Interesting times indeed.
Fun week of waves. The odd patch of rain but mostly blue skies and light winds. Swell in the 3-4 feet range spread the crowds out over both sides of the island. Early in the week offshore only on the Eastside of the island and lumpy on the Westside. Canggu and Keramas busy and Uluwatu getting some great early season sessions. Nusa Dua in the 3-5 feet range but the swell a bit broken up out there. Balian was worth the drive if you could deal with the long boarders taking the pick of the sets waves.
- Childs
Small empty lefts peel through the channel at Nusa Dua.
Photo: Childs
Empty Eastcoast peak clean and fun
Photo: Childs
Canggu sandbar firing
Photo: Childs
Japanese pro surfer Yujiro Tsuji loving the warm water and barreling lefts of Bali’s Eastcoast.
Photo: Childs
Dawn patrolling on the Eastcoast of Bali.
Photo: Childs
Low tide perfection and empty somewhere on the Eastcoast.
Photo: Childs
Where’s the crowds? Just a short walk from?
Photo: Childs
Keramas the natural footers fav.
Photo: Childs
Japanese long boarder about to see how shallow the reef is at Keramas.
Photo: Childs
Keramas firing waves, hot bloody sand and good jaffles.
Photo: Childs
Mentawais.
It's early season in the Mentawais, but things are definitely starting to come to life in the region. A few charter boats have been running trips for the past few weeks, and the resorts and land camps in the area have had a trickle of visitors. The area is gloriously empty and the waves have been fun.
Early last week conditions were small. The exposed spots were the pick. Josh Kerr, Clay Marzo, Jay Davies and Chippa Wilson were in the area, making the most of the playful waves.
A new swell arrived on Friday afternoon February 5. The sand and the long period meant there was plenty of power. It peaked on Saturday morning and remained solid through to Sunday, but funky winds meant it was hard to find clean and solid waves.
We are expecting another swell to arrive mid-week.
Wind, tides, UV ratings, air temps and outlook provided by Coastalwatch are based on data and radar images provided by the Bureau of Meteorology. www.bom.gov.au
Wind, tides, UV ratings, air temps and outlook provided by
