Large Long period swell on the way for WA, SA, Vic and Indo.
By Coastalwatch meteorologist Jeff Callaghan.
A large long period swell is currently still developing southwest of Australia in the Kerguelen Island region. In Figure 1 the low pressure system responsible for the swell can be seen intensifying as it moved towards Kerguelen Island last Sunday (20 September). Yesterday (21 September) an enormous zone of 50 to 60 knot winds developed north and northwest of the centre (Figure 2).
As a result of these unique conditions a very large swell can be seen to develop in the region (Figure 3) with analysed heights exceeding 48 feet. The heights in the swell zone should peak today (22 September) and gradually ease thereafter as it moves towards Australia and Indonesia. However the period of these swells has been increasing and is expected to increase over the next few days as energy is transferred to the longer period end of the wave spectrum.
In Figure 4 the peak energy wave analyses and forecasts show the peak energy period of the wave front increase and is forecast to reach 20 seconds as it approaches Australia and Indonesia.
Large long period swells should reach Western and Southern Australia as well as Indonesia.
In this report we have used data from the Bureau of Meteorology and data from the National Centres for Environmental Prediction/ National Centre for Atmospheric Research (NCEP/NCAR) Reanalysis Project, which is available at :
Quikscat satellite wind observations were also obtained from the US Government site:-
Wave height and period data over ocean areas was obtained data from the US Navy public web site :-
As the waves of Waimea Bay begin to rumble
A deepening monsoon trough is set to spawn one or two tropical cyclones over the Coral Sea
Jock Serong finally makes it to Oahu's North Shore after a lifetime of dreaming
By Matt McKay
Who is Clay Marzo anyway?
The first event in six years ready to run
Mick Corbett & Jarryd Foster check in from Nazaré ahead of potential 100-foot swell this week
Want to work with the best magazine in the world?
Fail after fail, after fail, after fail...
The wave that had jaws dropping
Sydney to Noosa via land, sea & sky
Our land abounds in nature's gifts this weekend
The Best Pipe Comp In Yonks, Kelly Talks 9/11, & Unseen Mick 'n' Dane Mex Footage – This Week In Surfing
Ten Things From Surfing & The Internet On The Week That Was February 5, 2016