Large Long period swell on the way for WA, SA, Vic and Indo.

22 Sep 2009 0 154 VIEWS

Figure 1. Quikscat winds and US high resolution mean sea level pressure distribution for 0000UTC 20 September 2009 top frame (10am EST 20th) and 1200 UTC 20 September 2009 lower frame (10pm EST 20th). “L’ denotes the position of the mean sea level low centre.

Figure 1. Quikscat winds and US high resolution mean sea level pressure distribution for 0000UTC 20 September 2009 top frame (10am EST 20th) and 1200 UTC 20 September 2009 lower frame (10pm EST 20th). “L’ denotes the position of the mean sea level low centre.

Figure 2. Quikscat winds and US high resolution mean sea level pressure distribution for 0000UTC 21 September 2009 top frame (10am EST 21st) and 1200 UTC 21 September 2009 lower frame (10pm EST 21st). “L’ denotes the position of the mean sea level low centre.

Figure 2. Quikscat winds and US high resolution mean sea level pressure distribution for 0000UTC 21 September 2009 top frame (10am EST 21st) and 1200 UTC 21 September 2009 lower frame (10pm EST 21st). “L’ denotes the position of the mean sea level low centre.

Figure 3. Swell height analyses showing the development of the large swell near Kerguelen Island.”L” denotes the position of the low pressure system.

Figure 3. Swell height analyses showing the development of the large swell near Kerguelen Island.”L” denotes the position of the low pressure system.

By Coastalwatch meteorologist Jeff Callaghan.

A large long period swell is currently still developing southwest of Australia in the Kerguelen Island region. In Figure 1 the low pressure system responsible for the swell can be seen intensifying as it moved towards Kerguelen Island last Sunday (20 September). Yesterday (21 September) an enormous zone of 50 to 60 knot winds developed north and northwest of the centre (Figure 2).

As a result of these unique conditions a very large swell can be seen to develop in the region (Figure 3) with analysed heights exceeding 48 feet. The heights in the swell zone should peak today (22 September) and gradually ease thereafter as it moves towards Australia and Indonesia. However the period of these swells has been increasing and is expected to increase over the next few days as energy is transferred to the longer period end of the wave spectrum.
In Figure 4 the peak energy wave analyses and forecasts show the peak energy period of the wave front increase and is forecast to reach 20 seconds as it approaches Australia and Indonesia.

Large long period swells should reach Western and Southern Australia as well as Indonesia.

In this report we have used data from the Bureau of Meteorology and data from the National Centres for Environmental Prediction/ National Centre for Atmospheric Research (NCEP/NCAR) Reanalysis Project, which is available at :
http://nomad3.ncep.noaa.gov/ncep_data/index.html.
Quikscat satellite wind observations were also obtained from the US Government site:-
http://manati.orbit.nesdis.noaa.gov/quikscat/.
Wave height and period data over ocean areas was obtained data from the US Navy public web site :-
https://www.fnmoc.navy.mil/ww3_cgi/index.html

Tags: (create Alert from these tags)

blog comments powered by Disqus
Features
Day 1: Billabong Pro Tahiti 2014

Day 1: Billabong Pro Tahiti 2014

Feature Gallery: A truly epic day of competitive surfing.

1 19 Aug 2014
Gallery: The Life's a Beach Photo Competition So Far

Gallery: The Life's a Beach Photo Competition So Far

Click through and daydream away to the smell of oily sunscreen.

0 19 Aug 2014
Bali, Indonesia Surf Forecast 19 August  - 3 September 2014

Bali, Indonesia Surf Forecast 19 August - 3 September 2014

There are some solid chunks of Indian Ocean juice inbound across Indonesian coasts into late August. Check out the forecast.

2 19 Aug 2014
Recent

Australia’s First NBN Surf Cam - Coffs Harbour HD

Coastalwatch has just released Australia’s first Surf Cam connected to the National Broadband Network.

0 20 Aug 2014
Gallery: The Life's a Beach Photo Competition So Far

Gallery: The Life's a Beach Photo Competition So Far

0 19 Aug 2014
Subscribe To SW and Score Richie Lovett's The Big Sea – One Week Left

Subscribe To SW and Score Richie Lovett's The Big Sea – One Week Left

0 18 Aug 2014
Lisa Andersen Ready To Fire In The Surfaid Cup Malibu

Lisa Andersen Ready To Fire In The Surfaid Cup Malibu

0 18 Aug 2014
Globe ‘Strange Rumblings’ Australian Film Premiere

Globe ‘Strange Rumblings’ Australian Film Premiere

0 14 Aug 2014
Latest News
Australia’s First NBN Surf Cam - Coffs Harbour HD

Australia’s First NBN Surf Cam - Coffs Harbour HD

Coastalwatch has just released Australia’s first Surf Cam connected to the National Broadband Network.

Gallery: The Life's a Beach Photo Competition So Far

Gallery: The Life's a Beach Photo Competition So Far

Click through and daydream away to the smell of oily sunscreen.

Lisa Andersen Ready To Fire In The Surfaid Cup Malibu

Lisa Andersen Ready To Fire In The Surfaid Cup Malibu

Four-time ASP women’s world champion Lisa Andersen is raring to go in the third annual SurfAid Cup Malibu on Saturday September 6.

Globe ‘Strange Rumblings’ Australian Film Premiere

Globe ‘Strange Rumblings’ Australian Film Premiere

7pm Sunday August 17, Sydney State Theatre.

Popular This Week
Video & Gallery: Mentawais - July, 2014

Video & Gallery: Mentawais - July, 2014

July was a standout month in The Mentawai, with swell after swell ensuring it was a month to remember.

Video: Koby Abberton, Piped at Super Suck

Video: Koby Abberton, Piped at Super Suck

Wave of The Week: Mr. Abberton can get tubed.

Day 1: Billabong Pro Tahiti 2014

Day 1: Billabong Pro Tahiti 2014

Feature Gallery: A truly epic day of competitive surfing.

This Week in Surfing... August 8, 2014

This Week in Surfing... August 8, 2014

Sand bottom right points, the wipeout of a lifetime, legends on single fins – ten things from the week of surfing.

Go to Top