Hawaiian Swell Journal Dec 7 and 8, 2009.

9 Dec 2009 0



Aloha

It’s Monday night here on the North Shore and it’s been a day of sirens, traffic gridlock and huge waves.

The hero of the day, if you can call him that, is Shane Dorian. He took the biggest drops today at Waimea and could easily be in the running for the Billabong XXL big wave competition paddle in division. Some of the waves he rode were absolutely HUGE!! One wave was at least 35 feet on the face. In between drops, he was taking some very big breaths. He ducked dived monsters again and again, I bet he is sleeping well tonight.

George Downing, the contest director for the Quiksilver Eddie Aikau, predicts there is a 90% chance of running on Tuesday. He stated earlier in the day that if the swell kept rising during the day then there was a bigger chance to run tomorrow. For the last couple of hours tonight the swell kept bombing. Close out sets at the Bay and some massive swells breaking out to the horizon all along the Seven Mile Miracle.

There were crew towing in at outside Rockplies this afternoon and to the naked eye (from the beach) wave heights were in the 40’ range. Jaws on Maui was breaking in the 25’ plus range with tow in crews all over it. Contest Directors for the Billabong Pipe Masters, Luke Egan and Mike Parsons were amongst the Jaws tow in crew. No news from them yet but Luke reckons he has been training all year just for a day like today. Maui was sunny in the morning so expect some nice clean images to flow. At Waimea the sun didn’t shine all day so there will be a lot of black and white stuff coming from the North Shore.

Late this afternoon the Lifeguard Tower was removed form the beach front at Sunset Beach. Most of the sand has gone and the waves were washing over the bike path and onto the road. The forecast is predicting this swell to continue to rise so the Council is taking no risks with the $30,000 towers.

Stay tuned for more froth about the XXXL swells hitting the North Shore.

– Joli


Stop press!!! – As we posted this highlights package from Jaws and Waimea yesterday I added some shots from round one heats at The Eddie this morning. At the time we posted it looked like Kelly had an unassailable lead established.

Mad Monday December 7, 2009.



Lozza Towner charging at Jaws on Mad Monday Dec 7, 2009.Photo: Will Robinson.


Laird Hamilton carving at Jaws on Monday.Photo: WIll Robinson.


Towner charging hard again.Photo: WIll Robinson.


Airdrop at The Bay late on Mad Monday.Photo: Gibson.


The line up at Jaws on Maui on Monday.Photo: WIll Robinson.


Unknown maniac charging a massive left at Jaws.Photo: WIll Robinson.


How big is it?Photo: Will Robinson.


Perfect Jaws.Photo: WIll Robinson.


Sunset at Waimea Bay on Mad Monday.Photo: Will Robinson.


The lifeguard towers were removed from Sunset Beach on Monday arvo to preserve them.Photo: Joli.

Tuesday morning at The Eddie.



Andy I on the inside and Jamie O dropping in at Waimea this morning during their Eddie Rd 1 heat on Tuesday Dec 8, 2009.Photo: Will Robinson.


Mark Healy in the yellow and Reef Mcintosh charging at The Bay this morning.Photo: WIll Robinson.


Massive Bay set on Tuesday morning Dec 8, 2009.Photo: WIll Robinson.


Andy smooth as and in control.Photo: Will Robinson.


Unknown chargers dropping into The Bay late.Photo: WIll Robinson.





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