Forecasting Tutorial: Wave Period Explained

4 Dec 2012 0

Wave period is the distance between two waves passing through a stationary point, measured in seconds.

Wave period is the distance between two waves passing through a stationary point, measured in seconds.

Understanding The Magic Number

At Coastalwatch we often receive emails with questions about our surf forecasts. Here, Chief Swell Forecaster Ben Macartney explains how Swell Period affects surf quality and answers a reader question: Which is better, long period or short period swells?

When it comes reading forecast graphs, swell period is definitely the magic number. Indeed, for a forecaster, explaining the implications of swell period is a bit like the birds and the bees – of surfing. The basic definition is as follows: Swell period is a measure of the time, in seconds, between successive wave crests (or troughs) passing through a stationary point. 

CoastalWatch Plus

View the full Article

Tags: wave period, (create Alert from these tags)

blog comments powered by Disqus
More From Forecasting Tutorials
Forecasting Tutorial: Reading Wave Models

Forecasting Tutorial: Reading Wave Models

Gain a deeper understanding into how wave models work and how to read them.

0 16 May 2014
Surf Forecast Glossary

Surf Forecast Glossary

Keep up to date with the Forecasting lingo.

0 16 May 2014
Forecasting Tutorial: Air Masses

Forecasting Tutorial: Air Masses

Welcome to our first installment on meteorology basics: Swell is generated by wind and wind is the result of air pressure.

2 15 May 2014
Recent

The Church Of The Open Sky

A sea-soaked celebration

0 24 Apr 2017
Surfing Super Stars Support Disabled Surfers Association

Surfing Super Stars Support Disabled Surfers Association

0 23 Apr 2017
Sri Lankan Wanderings

Sri Lankan Wanderings

0 22 Apr 2017
Surfing Is My Obsession

Surfing Is My Obsession

0 22 Apr 2017
Mick Fanning Talks One-On-One With JJF Post Air

Mick Fanning Talks One-On-One With JJF Post Air

0 21 Apr 2017
Popular This Week

Kelly Slater Saves Big Wave Champion Russell Bierke's Life

Storm swell accident nearly ends in tragedy

Simon Anderson Recreates 1981 Winning Bells Board

Recreating an iconic piece of surfing

Learn: Tantric Sex Tube Tricks With Al Knost

Plus much more super important hard hitting surf analysis

Go to Top