Hawaiian Swell Journal, Friday December 3, 2010

3 Dec 2010 0



Conditions report and video by | Anthony Walsh



Photos by | Bill Morris & Peter ‘Joli’ Wilson, as captioned

Words by | Bill Morris

Desperate times on the North Shore

It’s been three days of the flattest surf I have ever seen in Hawaii. It was pretty much unrideable which is highly unusual for these wave rich waters. It never stays that way for too long however and yesterday a two-three foot north-north-west swell filtered in giving everyone some relief from the boredom that was beginning to set in.

For the pro’s and photographers, Rocky Point was the usual focus in the smallish conditions. The typical November weather pattern seems to be making a late charge with rain squalls and a stiff north-east trade blowing in early.

Rocky Rights were clean on the face for turns while Rocky Lefts into the wind provided the aerial specialists a chance to strut their stuff with guys like Aussie Craig Anderson and Hawaiian Kalani Chapman leading the way with their high flying antics.

The Rip Curl Pro at Sunset finally kicked into gear again in average conditions for Hawaiian standards but the lack of time remaining in the waiting period and the poor forecast forced the director’s hand. The contest was split into two venues with heats run at Kamiland as well as the usual venue at Sunset Point. Men’s and Women’s winners will be crowned today.

Stay tuned to Coastalwatch for those results and updates on surf conditions and happenings from the North Shore.

- Bill Morris


Conditions Report

Wednesday 24th Nov
Another day, another combination of swells. Wednesday had a five-six foot north-west swell running, with a small east-north-east swell from the strong trade-winds chopping it up a little at the more open spots. The north-west was still quite big, and as the wind dropped there were some diamonds in the rough at Off The Wall, Backdoor and Pipeline if you put your time in.

Thursday, November 25
Thanksgiving was all about the food not the waves. Not least because there wasn’t any surf to talk about. Rocky's, Gas and Pupukea had a few windy little ones if you wanted to work up an appetite, but it was pretty small.

Friday, November 26
No swell plus lots of wind equals anything but surfing. Tennis, football, diving and eating left-overs were about it for Friday.

Saturday, November 27
A tiny north-north-west swell (maybe one foot at most) was all that was on offer at even the biggest spots. With a strong east-north-east wind, the only surfable spot was Rocky Point.

Sunday–Tuesday, November 28-30
Flat all day. Three days of absolutely zero surf, not that anyone’s counting.

Wednesday, December 1
Finally some surf. A new three foot north-north-west swell kicked in, but was marred by strong north-east trade winds which got stronger throughout the day.

Forecast
Short term the forecast doesn't look great with the current swell dying out over the next couple days, strong trade-winds and nothing new on the horizon. Out in the ocean, the El Niño/La Niña cycle is in full swing, with a huge high-pressure cell in the North Pacific stopping any low-pressure systems from forming and producing swell. By the weekend it looks like it might burn out. Here’s hoping something will come in after that!

- Anthony Walsh

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