Pohnpei Swell Journal

14 Nov 2011 0

Report and photos by Amy Kotch, courtesy World Surfaris / Pohnpei Surf Club

After two weeks of small waves and big fish, the first swell of the season hit Palikir Pass on Saturday November 5. It was a beauty.

Allois and Scardy had both noticed a storm developing over Japan a week earlier and made the call that one of the World’s most perfect waves was about to show her face. But when we motored out for a look late in the afternoon on the 4th good waves were hard to imagine – the swell was tiny and mixed up and quite uninviting. After a quick snorkel it was back to camp for Sashimi and another look at the swell charts. However, Allois assured us that we didn’t need to check any sites as he was quite sure it would be on in the morning, so the boats and boards were prepared for an early start.

Motoring down the river in the misty morning light is an experience in itself. Moments like these are a big part of the lure of surf travel. As travelling surfers, we often find ourselves in some of the most stunningly beautiful locations, admiring scenery that would justify the journey alone. But on this day we had another agenda – barrels! As we reached the pass it was clear that Allois’s swell had arrived. Head high sets were breaking every ten minutes or so, though it was suffering from a mild case of morning sickness and wasn’t really barreling. We hit it anyway and soon realized that it was still super fun, in fact all the new arrivals seemed quite happy that they didn’t have to paddle straight out into heaving pits! Though within a few hours, that’s exactly what we had! It was an incredible transformation but there it was, right before us, absolute perfection. The day became an orgy of tube riding. Every wave that broke would barrel. If you made the drop and set your rail, you got barreled. Even when the wind briefly swung light onshore guys were getting eight second shacks.

As we motored back, the sun slipped under the clouds giving us a crazy light show to perfectly end an epic day.

The next few days are a blur of barrels. Everyone surfed themselves to exhaustion spending a ridiculous amount of time in the tube. It was big, it was clean, it was perfect.

See you soon.

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Tags: micronesia , swell , carolines , world , surfaris , ppass , journal , palikir , pohnpei (create Alert from these tags)

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