Taming the T-Rex of Surf
Report and images courtesy Jeff Rowley & Minnie Vuong
Jeff Rowley, Greg Long, Shaun Walsh and Albee Layer have spent the past two days paddle-surfing Jaws, on the Hawaiian island of Maui, as part of their ongoing big-wave paddle-in program at the deep-water reef.
Here's some video from the session:
Rowley recalls catching one of the day’s set waves, taking off underneath the lip (seen in video).
“As the wave was coming I knew I was in the right position, I didn't want to waste any energy paddling just turn around and go. It just picked me up perfectly."
Rowley was also was forced to deploy his emergency inflatable airbag with mini scuba tank, to surface after wiping out on another bomb.
'It’s powerful out there. I was getting pushed around so violently that I couldn’t even pull the tag. It pushed me so deep my ears were hurting and I didn't think I was coming up. I'm lucky I was able to inflate."
The session was another step in Rowley’s personal ‘Charge For Charity’ quest to raise money for Breast Cancer Australia.
“I am grateful to everyone who has supported my Charge For Charity. Overcoming my fears is nothing compared to fighting a life-threatening disease.”
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