The Passing of Two Australian Surfing Legends, The Indo Swell of a Generation, and a Nightmare Boardbag Travel Incident
COASTALWATCH | THIS WEEK IN SURFING
Ten Things From Surfing & The Internet On The Week That Was July 27, 2018
1. The Passing of Two Australian Surfing Legends
This morning (Friday July 27) we learnt sadly of the passing of the great Wayne Deane, who was taken by stomach cancer at just 65. Deane's surfing was synonymous with Kirra when the long, sand bottom right point was perhaps the centre of the surfing world, at least from an Aussie surfing perspective anyway. And he'll be remembered as one of the greatest surfers to surf Australian surfing's greatest wave, when it was at it's greatest. That's quite a legacy, and it's a legacy befitting of Wayne Deane.
I wrote a full obit on surfingworld.com.au, this morning, and while doing so I found this neat quote from Wayne in relation to his life at Kirra in that time, that I couldn't fit in there. But here feels like a good spot to place it:
“Growing up in Coolangatta in the 50s and 60s was amazing and add the fact of being a surfer or ‘Surfie’ as we were known by the older generation then, was a bonus. There was a lot of sand on the beaches in Coolangatta back then but in 67 there was back-to-back cyclone swells that hit the east coast removing large amounts of sand from the beaches. We had surfed Kirra many times before this on Mals and these memories would soon fade as the next three decades produced the commonly referred to “Worlds Best Wave” at Kirra. It was Nirvana. Ten to 20 second tube rides were to be ridden at this location, so to have it within walking distance of where we lived was heaven.”
Below is a great clip Surfer produced towards the end of last year. It illustates the generous nature which endeared Deane to so many, especially to the host of world beating surf stars that have also come out of Coolangatta, and who are paying tribute to and mourning the great surfer/shaper today.
R.I.P. Wayne Deane.
Wayne’s passing came just days after the tragic death of 1968/1970 Australian Champion Judy Trim, marking quite a sad week for Australian surfing.
Judy Trim was just a 15 year old grommet from Dee Why when she first won the Australian Title, but sadly she was unable to compete in the World Titles in Puerto Rico that year as she had no sponsors and couldn't raise the funds to get over there (I think, there's not a lot of info immediately at hand here).
Here's a paragraph I found from an incredible article on Trim that featured in a 1968 issue of Australian Women's Weekly that details situation:
"Her greatest wish is to represent Australia overseas.
Originally the International Surfing Federation was allowing only four Australian surfers to compete in the world championships in November. Following protests, this number has now been raised to a team of seven men and three girls, with two reserves. The International Surfing Federation has agreed to pay for two male team members and a judge accompanying them, but the others have either to find their own sponsor or pay their fares themselves. Judy has been selected as the number one girl to go. Accommodation would be no problem to Judy because the Puerto Rican Government is providing that free for the duration of the contest. They have specially built bungalows on Rincon Beach, where the competitions will be held. But at the moment nobody holds much hope that Judy, the champion without a sponsor, will be able to go."
(Read the full article at the National Library of Austalia Trove, it's a classic!)
While Judy Trim isn't as well known a name in surfing as she should be, her respect amongst peers and surfing's biggest names was of the highest order.
Both 1976 World Champ Peter Townend and 1990 World Champ Pam Burridge posted tributes to Trim on Facebook. Burridge wrote:
"So sad to hear of the passing of Judy Trim. She was a fantastic surfer in a time without a lot of opportunities to express that talent. Everyone respected her radical approach & she was a legend to me as a teenager. Too soon. Goodbye Trimmy"
R.I.P. Judy Trim
2. Indo Went Mental
As you've no doubt seen, Indonesia experienced the swell of generation this week, with Nias catching the lion's share of the spotlight, and Uluwatu copping the biggest lines anyone's seen there since the Internet became a thing. If we wanted, all of This Week In Surfing could be nothing but clips from Indonesia this week, but instead we'll point you to Surfing World's full rundown of the carnage, as well as this raw vision of Uluwatu handling the mega swell. For here and now, though, let's watch Koa Rothman's latest episode of his web series, This Is Livin, which comes from the wild scenes of Nias, only last week's swell. Hanging for part 2 of this one.
3. Actually, just one more clip from Nias
Nathan Florence, at this point, looks to be the star of the swell. Can't wait to see what our boys Laurie Towner and Riley Laing locked into though.
4. Tyler Wright Pulls Out of US Open Due To Sickness
Well, that's that then. After two years of dominance from both John John Florence and Tyler Wright taking back to back World Titles, it looks like we'll have fresh World Champs in both men's and women's sides of surfing. John John of course injured his knee very seriously in Bali this year that will likely knock him out for the rest of the season, while Tyler Wright is still suffering from the influenza that knocked her out of the Corona Open J-Bay event earlier this month and has announced via Instagram that she won't be well enough to compete at the US Open of Surfing beginning in a week. Couple those two event knockouts with a not super strong first half of the year, and a third World Title looks to big a mountain to climb for our two-time World Champ. Which is fine, we just wish her the quickest and strongest of recoveries so she can get back to her most devastating in 2019. Let's go Tyler!
Unfortunately I will be withdrawing from Vans US Open of Surfing. I’m still recovering from Influenza A. Mum and Alex have been acting as full time nurses, they’ve discovered I’m a shit patient. I’m home with the doggos getting better, but still a long way from full strength. Thanks to everyone for the continued support. @wsl @ripcurl_aus @monsterenergy @jeep @ocean_earth79 @mayhemb3_mattbiolos
5. Let's Watch Taj and Dakoda Walters
The best thing about Taj surfing with super groms like this mega talent Dakoda Walters is that Taj never really stopped being a super-grommet himself. Fun viewing out of the Billabong camp right here.
6. Hold Up, Sabre Norris Won Silver at the X-Games?!
Not exactly surf, but Sabre Norris, a surfer, skated in the X-Games this week, still only 13, and finished second against the best skaters in the world. And she did it landing a 540! Epic, epic, epic!
7. Kanoa's Boardbag Nightmare
On the back of Visa's dime, Kanoa Igarashi flew home to the US via Russia and the World Cup final following J-Bay. His boardbag came with him, and along the way copped some serious Kevin Muscat treatment. Is this the worst airline travel board damage incident you've ever seen? I have nightmares about this kind of thing, but then I wake up from those nightmares and calm mysef with the sweet relief that I could never get so many boards snapped because I don't own that many boards. Nor do I travel that much. Nor the do I have the ability or need to travel with five surfboards. Ah, the sweet relief of not being a wealthy, high travelling elite professional surfer. Phew.
8. Jordy Smith's South African Freesurfs
Long walls, punchy beach breaks, and Jordy Smith surfing like Jordy Smith. What more do you need in a surf clip? Dolphins? There’s dolphins too!
9. The Campbell Brothers Are Living Surfing Treasures!
How freaking cool are the Campbell brothers, Duncan and Malcolm, the guys behind the bonzer surfboard, one of the most original and influential and just far out surfboard designs in our history. This is a nice new clip for RVCA where Alex Knost and Ford Archbold surf their boards while the two legends chat over the top. I am so here for this, always. Long live the bonzer!
10. Here's a new episode of the Lipped podcast
This episode features Nick Carroll (who wrote two ripper pieces this week, one on Bondi, one on Indo surf travel) and Chris Binns, who goes for the Fremantle Dockers. (He also commentated the Rip Curl Cup at Padang Padang and has some very astute observations about professional surfing.)
And that was this week in surfing. Have a good weekend everyone. Look after your mates.
This Week In Surfing: Ten Things From Surfing & The Internet On The Week That Was April 26, 2019
Sent in against his will!
There's a synoptic elephant over the Southern Ocean.
A must watch film about surf photography in the modern era.
The Barton Lynch Blast Off event is an incredible grom event like no other.
Joe Blow at the Pro is back!
A 33rd for the Greatest of All Time
Local knowledge is a must just to navigate the backwash on a day like this. Mitty Parko has it on lock.
When you're stuck at Double Island Point on the high tide
Beautiful lines and fancy footwork
Sharing his local with mates Dan Ross, Brendan Margieson and Austin Langridge in the year 2000
Sent in against his will!