Thanksgiving Swell: Hawaii: November 27, 2008

29 Nov 2008 0 Share

Off The Wall firing on Thanksgiving Day

Off The Wall firing on Thanksgiving Day

Kai Otten carving

Kai Otten carving

Taj tucking in tight

Taj tucking in tight

Owen Wright kicking out the jams

Owen Wright kicking out the jams

Hawaii Thursday November 27, 2008

Aloha

Thanksgiving Day here in the US and we need to give thanks for a great day of surfing. Rocky Point was the go early then Off The Wall and Backdoor fired up during the afternoon. Lots of turkey diners going on around the North Shore and this kept the crowds down to 'Foreigners Only' in the water.

Kai Otten was a stand out at Rocky Point, but he broke one board going for a huge lip launch into the wind. He was back in the water within minutes with a new one and proceeded to carve and get air on the lefts. Taj Burrow, Rasta, Koby Abberton and Owen Wright dominated the Off The Wall section of the beach. Taj lit up with some heavy lip smacks while Rasta laid down his trademark cutback. Owen Wright launched off every ramp he could find much to the delight of the photogs lining the beach. That XXL swell is only hours away now and a check of the wave maps for the Northern Pacific have them lit up like a Christmas tree. Supposed to be 15'-18' by tomorrow morning with an 'even bigger' swell behind it. We'll wait and see but it is probably gong to be big Sunset Beach for the O'Neill contest then who knows.

Mahalo

Peter Joli Wilson

Rasta eyeing off the next section at Backdoor

Rasta eyeing off the next section at Backdoor

Perfect fun size Thanksgiving Backdoor

Perfect fun size Thanksgiving Backdoor

Parko pitted at Backdoor

Parko pitted at Backdoor

A beautiful Thanksgiving day on the Rock with glorious sunshine. Something us photographers hope for every day on the North Shore of Oahu. This being November, the middle of rain & storm season, its not always pretty. Weather can change at the drop of a hat. You can be standing on the beach with clear blue sky one minute and the next your running for cover in a torrential downpour.

Today was nice. Clear sky all day with milder E-N-E trades and a bigger 4-5 foot swell. Glassy early with OTW and Backdoor having a few good ones in the morning high tide wobble. Most of the Pro's were out before midday working up an appetite before disappearing around the North Shore for the compulsory Thanksgiving turkey dinner. The surf was pretty much abandoned after 2pm with only a few sampling the rare uncrowded conditions along the stretch.

Bill Morris

Rockpile looking picture perfect back on the 18th

Rockpile looking picture perfect back on the 18th

Perfect Off-The- Wall and minimal crowds, one of the features of the 08 season so far

Perfect Off-The- Wall and minimal crowds, one of the features of the 08 season so far

While the whole North Shore is gorging itself on Turkey for Thanksgiving the ocean has delivered some nice waves to the table. The swell is charted to go NUTS overnight. Here's a few extra pics from recent days.

Shane Peel

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