Hawaii: Last week on the North Shore: December 14-17, 2008

19 Dec 2008 0 Share

Hawaii Wednesday December 17, 2008

Aloha from another small day on the North Shore.

Yep the surf is small again today but the water is almost back to a tropical blue colour, maybe just in time for another round of bad boy storms.

The early risers were greeted with a small increase in swell over night and as the day wore on the stragglers and the crew getting out of school were greeted with head high waves by mid afternoon. The late crew had to deal with crowds though. Backyards had lines and the north in the swell was hitting down through Pupukea. It was a fun time surf with not too much intensity. The main focus of the day was another approaching storm. The clouds had already socked in by mid afternoon so it was no shooting again for me or any other photogs hanging around. All remnants of the Triple Crown of Surfing have disappeared. The Contest Director Bernie Baker was out raking the last remnants of evidence from the park at Pipeline today. The permit system is tough on surf contest and they have Inspectors come out from Honolulu to check if all the grass is back in place.

We're still being promised head high waves over the next few days if the weather doesn't get too crazy. How's this, it snowed in Las Vegas yesterday. Vegas has the biggest population of Hawaiians outside of here. They love to gamble and have moved to Vegas in droves. The cheapest flights out of here go direct to Vegas and they even call the city the '9th' island. But snow. Vegas is in the desert. It's all sort of weird. I'm just waiting for the surf to kick back in so we can get some more beach action going.

Mahalo
Peter 'Joli' Wilson

Hawaii Tuesday December 16, 2008

Aloha

It's a quiet Tuesday on the Rock and only the Triple Crown roadies and the Lifeguards are stirring early. Today is basically flat. The surf forecast is for clean 3' surf with dirty water. Is that an oxymoron? Clean but dirty? Whichever way you look at it though, it's small and flat for the North Shore considering the conditions we've had so far this winter. The West Side is flat too and the water is still very dirty. Thankfully not very inviting to swim or surf as there were tiger shark sightings just meters off shore today. All the junk that got washed into the ocean during the recent storms have brought the sharks in close to feed. One tiger sighted was over 3 meters long.

The waiting period for the Billabong Pipeline Masters still has four days to go but by the time it officially finishes on the 20th there wont be any evidence left of it's existence in the Pipeline Beach Park. The roadies are swarming all over the structures and it will be gone in a day or so.

The short order forecast is for head high waves by Thursday. There's very cold jet stream cloud system that has dropped right down from the Northern Pacific which is causing a cold snap in California. The same system is feeding into a storm front to our west so we could get more rain and possibly more surf. It's a waiting game right now.

Mahalo
Peter 'Joli' Wilson

Hawaii Monday December 15, 2008

Aloha

Not a lot going on today. Surf is in the 4'-5' range with the occasional overhead face. Rocky Point has some fun waves early and the Off The Wall-Backdoor stretch had a few for the crew still left in the team houses.
Mick Fanning, who is till here Rockin' the Rock was out early putting an epoxy board through it's paces. Timmy Reyes, who only three days ago was pulling into chocolate bombs on his way to a third place in the Billabong Pipeline Masters was out surf four footers in the same zone riding some sort of hybrid longboard/fish while a young kid from Kauai, Kyle Ramey was proving you don't need a whole surfboard to have fun. We've still got a very juicy atmosphere swirling around us. Lots of high cloud with the odd burst of 'liquid sunshine'. According to the forecast there is another storm brewing to our west which is full of moisture. Basically that equates to more rain. The water colour is not back to it's tropical blue, it's off green right now, but if we get more rain it could be back to the chocolate colour we had last week. The swell is expected to drop over the next couple of days but there is talk of a new swell later in the week. Stay tuned.

Mahalo
Peter 'Joli' Wilson

Hawaii Sunday December 14, 2008

Aloha

A bumpy 4' of left over north swell greeted us today. The remnants of our crazy weather were still hanging around as well. The first hit of sunshine wasn't till nearly 10 am and helped dry us out. How's this for a shopping list of stuff going on with the weather here. There was a tornado on Kauai, a water spout hit land and turned into a tornado. They have been snowboarding on Mt Mauna Kea on the Big Island, there have been rainfall records broken across the islands, there are millions of dollars in flood damage and now we even have a 'Pot Hole Hotline' to report damage to the roads.
Crew were having there last Hawaiian surf today before catching flights home tomorrow. Parko and Bottle were out at Off The Wall for the last time this winter. Jay Bottle Thompson reckons he couldn't care less that the Gold Coast is 2' with northerly winds because all he's hanging to do us hang with his mates and drink beer, lot's of beer and of course hang out with his chick. Bottle did both the WCT and the WQS for the last half of the year and reckons he's only been home for a week in five months! Grueling schedule chasing rating points. On the other hand Jordy Smith is heading to California for rehab on his knee. It turns out it's not as bad as was first though. He has problems with his ACL and his MCL joints but a month to six weeks should see him right, thank goodness cos he doesn't make a very good bodyboarder. It looks like we're in for more of the same sort of waves for the next few days. A laid back 4'-6' of north swells with light and variable winds. After the past six weeks of waves crew are having trouble getting motivated. Anywhere else in the world this size swell would have you jumping.

Mahalo
Peter 'Joli' Wilson

Tags: (create Alert from these tags)

blog comments powered by Disqus
Features
Watch: Episode 8 of Rivals – Danny Wills at Home on the NSW North Coast

Watch: Episode 8 of Rivals – Danny Wills at Home on the NSW North Coast

We're loving this home grown surf show!

29 Sep 2020
Lockdown Diaries: Meet the American Surfer Who Got "Stuck" at Supersuck

Lockdown Diaries: Meet the American Surfer Who Got "Stuck" at Supersuck

"They closed the borders, everything got cancelled, I got shut-in, and I stayed at Supersuck for four months. Pigdog heaven."

28 Sep 2020
Recent
Watch: Episode 8 of Rivals – Danny Wills at Home on the NSW North Coast

Watch: Episode 8 of Rivals – Danny Wills at Home on the NSW North Coast

29 Sep 2020
Watch: Episode 7 of Rivals – Bede Durbidge at Home in 4-5ft Straddie Barrels

Watch: Episode 7 of Rivals – Bede Durbidge at Home in 4-5ft Straddie Barrels

25 Sep 2020
Smashed In Vicco: A Couple Of The Lockdown State’s Finest Get Caught In The Mangler

Smashed In Vicco: A Couple Of The Lockdown State’s Finest Get Caught In The Mangler

2 22 Sep 2020
Master and Apprentice: Bethany Hamilton and Erin Brooks

Master and Apprentice: Bethany Hamilton and Erin Brooks

21 Sep 2020
Latest News

Smashed In Vicco: A Couple Of The Lockdown State’s Finest Get Caught In The Mangler

For a good chunk of this winter, it seemed like the Vicco crew had become the poor cousins of the surfing world...

Master and Apprentice: Bethany Hamilton and Erin Brooks

When Erin Brooks was nine and at the very beginning of her surfing journey, she met Bethany Hamilton.

Popular This Week

The Social Visa: Wondering How All These Surf Stars Are Cruising Around Indo? Here Ya Go

Remember when all this carnage started in March? And how briefly it looked like a whole Indo surf season would be going untravelled?

Forecaster Blog: La Niña conditions are here, what does it mean for Surf?

La Nina conditions continue to develop. Will the surf pump?

Padang Comes to Life as Late Season Swell hits Bali

Golden hour at perfect Padang Padang - it's been a good week to be in Bali... Photo: Childs

Go to Top