Hawaiian Swell Journal, Monday November 15

15 Nov 2010 0 Share

Report and photos by | Bill Morris

First light revealed a flat sea just like yesterday but it wasn’t long before little bumps started appearing on the reefs. By eight in the morning it was three foot and by ten it was four-to-six foot and building from the west. V-Land was looking nice and there were a few at Sunset but Rocky Point was the spot, offering perfect lefts and rights. With a light east-south-easterly offshore blowing, almost every wave was offering a barrel.

I decided to shoot some water photos and after quickly rigging up and applying sunscreen I jumped in a Rocky Lefts. I swam out with the idea of shooting a few photos of the lefts before heading over to the right. The sun glistening across the turquoise walls as the first set peeled perfectly from deep on the reef, each wave offering caverns for the lucky surfers who rode them.

Then it happened, as it only does in Hawaii. I caught a quick glimpse of dark on the horizon before noticing the pack switch to prone position, all stroking at a rapid pace and moving seaward in unison. I did the same, kicking hard while swimming with one arm, the other hand gripping my camera housing. It was all too obvious that I was doomed after just making it under the first wave.

The second was huge. Eight feet of new west swell, moving at Hawaiian speed, loomed in front of me. It broke five meters away as I dove for the bottom. I had just time enough to place one hand on the reef while cradling my housing into my chest before the shock wave hit. I was immediately pressed to the bottom before being ripped up and rag dolled along under water. I didn’t fight it and just let it take its course. I finally found myself pinned back to the bottom. This gave me a base to push off to get to the surface for one quick breath before the next wave hit me. After another four of those I was washed ashore, out of breath. I decided to call it quits for the day as the swell was getting bigger fast. It was right then that I definitely knew I was back in Hawaii.

Pipe should be on for the late, or tomorrow.

Bill Morris

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