Hawaiian Swell Journal, Monday December 6

6 Dec 2010 0 Share




Words and photos | Bill Morris

Every year I come to the North Shore I am amazed by the level of surfing that takes place in front of me by almost every person who catches a wave. Big or small, young or old, it doesn’t seem to matter. Everyone is a super hero.

The surf has been small for a week or so now but the swells in Hawaii still hold more power than your regular chest-high wave and everyone is still surfing. In the golden light of yesterday evening, I sat watching tiny one-to-two foot waves roll into Off The Wall just next to Pipeline. A band of young Brazilian grommets were attacking the tiny lefts that were peeling into the channel. It looked like they were all competing; every move was razor sharp and pulled with incredible speed. Their aerial antics were amazing. So many variations from standard air reverse to blazing 360 spins and alley oops. It was so rare to see them fall and so entertaining to watch.

Surfing has changed so much in the last 30 years since a young South African wiz kid named Martin Potter stopped the surfing world with images of him two foot above the wave. Claims then that this was where surfing was headed appears now to be such an understatement. I doubt whether anyone could have predicted how far it has been taken.

I was sitting there on the sand talking to a friend about all this as the sun set over the west side of Kaena Point and he suddenly said to me, “But were is the style of Occy or Curren amongst this new rabble of spinning air show freaks.” He was right. I couldn’t think of anyone right now to compare those lords of surfing to. Maybe, as surfing evolves further into the futuristic levels we never imagined possible all that time ago, we may just have to expect that some styles will never be seen again.

More waves expected Wednesday. Stay tuned.

- Bill Morris

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