Hawaiian Swell Journal, Wednesday December 15

15 Dec 2010 0 Share



Words and photos | Bill Morris

The North Shore mountains are a strange mix of an ancient volcanic landscape and space-age technology. Huge radio telescope dishes mount the Jurassic peaks scanning the heavens for who knows what? Maybe another Pipeline just a few hundred thousand light years away.

Sitting out in the lineup it’s hard not to notice the beauty of this place. The rich reds and browns of the earth mixed with the greens of the tropical vegetation and the turquoise blues of the ocean, magically altering in different hues throughout the day as the sun moves parallel from east to west along this magic stretch of sand & rock.

The swell is hovering in the two-four foot range out of the north-north-west with practically no wind. The Pipe Masters is still on hold and is looking like running tomorrow with a tiny increase in size expected.

The rain of the past few days has disappeared and paradise has returned to the North Shore. You may say it’s not a great surf day for Hawaiian standards but compared to most other places in the world, it’s a pretty good day.

- Bill Morris

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