Heaviest Teahupoo ever

28 Aug 2011 0 Share

After six miserable days of onshores of rain punctuated by just one sloppy, if solid, swell, cabin fever had set in around Teahupoo yesterday. The forecast for ‘best swell ever’ at Chopes had everyone on edge. Comp surfers were worried, the tow surfers were anxious and event organizers were doing their best to try and work out what the hell this swell was going to do.

Out on the reef in the morning the swell had definitely jumped and conditions were cleaner, but it was hard to tell much more than that. The media hut was abuzz. The Tahitian government ‘code red’ put the event on hold, but everyone was wondering if that would stop the tow surfers…

The answer soon became apparent as one by one wounded surfers came in on the back of the jet skis. Dean Morrison hobbled ashore with a broken ankle, legendary local Raimana came in battered and bruised claiming the surf was the heaviest he had ever seen it. It was all too much - I had to see this…

The media boats had sailed, so I grabbed my 5’7” and jumped into the rip gushing out through the reef pass. There was way more water moving around than normal and I was tossed about like a beach ball at a Brazilian rave. Rounding the reef the thunder of the wave gets louder. Salt spray filled the air from the impact of the heavy waves. It was almost hard to breathe.

Out in the channel I pulled up next to Josh Kerr, CJ Hobgood, Julian Wilson and Brett Simpson who had already secured front-row seats of the circus. Sitting deep in the channel gives you the best angle of the waves but means a scramble to get over the west bombs which sneak in, seemingly intent on taking crew down. Cheers from the peanut gallery let you know there is a set on the way.

Up the reef, Dylan Longbottom, Laurie Towner, Anthony Walsh, Dean Bowen, Bruce Irons, Dean Morrison, Koby Aberton and a few local heroes took turns on the bombs. The success rate was about 30%. Bruce got pumped on a bomb with such force his boardies were ripped off and he was washed in over the reef naked.

Dean drove the ski up to Julian asking if he wanted a whip-in. “I will just flick you into a nice small one” says Dean. Julian agreed. Ten minutes later a monster came rolling through with a surfer getting a high-speed tow from deep down the reef. Wait… It’s Julian… So much for a small one! He does a good job navigating his way into the sweet spot when the bottom of the wave completely drops out. The only thing touching the water is about three inches of the tail of his board and his trailing hand. Somehow he makes it through the heaviest part of the wave only to get munched on the inside there the wave meets the oncoming right. The spectators lose it.

The vibe in the lineup is amazing. Guys pop up from the heaviest slams with the biggest smiles on their faces. I don’t get it but it’s great viewing!

- Nick Gregory

Add comments here...


Tags: tahiti , pro , 2011 , teahupoo , big , swell , tow , video (create Alert from these tags)

blog comments powered by Disqus
More From Mobile Services
Registered Users

Registered Users

11 Mar 2015
SMS services

SMS services

Use the flexibility of Coastalwatch SMS service to check the daily surf report or live wind conditiosn around Australia anytime of the day.

25 Oct 2013
Recent

Raw Noosa, Maxed Out For Cyclone Uesi

Standout Sessions

20 Feb 2020
High Performers Light Up Duranbah This Week

High Performers Light Up Duranbah This Week

15 Feb 2020
Nick Carroll: A Few Things the Sponsored-Surfer Panic Has Missed

Nick Carroll: A Few Things the Sponsored-Surfer Panic Has Missed

1 13 Feb 2020
Standout Session: Snapper, Wednesday February 12, 2020

Standout Session: Snapper, Wednesday February 12, 2020

12 Feb 2020
Nick Carroll: Gold Coast up for Possible Legal Surf Zone Protection

Nick Carroll: Gold Coast up for Possible Legal Surf Zone Protection

3 12 Feb 2020
Latest News

High Performers Light Up Duranbah This Week

Standout Sessions: Crewsy, Macy Callaghan, Malia Manuel on the tear!

Standout Session: Snapper, Wednesday February 12, 2020

Asher Pacey, Nick Vasicek, Mitch Crews, Conner Coffin, wipeouts and more!

Popular This Week

Taj Leaves Billabong, Channel 7 To Broadcast the WSL, and Mason Ho x Tommy Peterson x Sweet Hawaiian Sandbank

This Week In Surfing: Ten Things from Surfing & the Internet on the Week That Was February 14, 2020

Cyclone Uesi: Pulsing Snapper Thursday

Joel and Mitch Parkinson, Asher Pacey, Sheldon Simkus, Damon Harvey, Nick Vasicek and more score pumping waves at Snapper Rocks as Cyclone Uesi pushed swell in from the east.

Go to Top