This Is Kerby Brown's Real World Advice For Big Wave Surfing
VOLCOM | SPONSORED INTERVIEW SERIES
Video by Mike Riley
How do you rise to the challenge in waves of consequence? Where does that confidence come from? Western Australia’s Kerby Brown grew up in a family just like yours. His dad surfed, his brother surfed, so perhaps it’s only natural Kerby took to it.
Family holidays involved camping up and down the coast and trips to Bali. Like you, he still has vivid memories from his early years as a young surfer. In particular, the Volcom free-surfer recalls mucking around on a surfboard in Bali, then sitting on the beach back in Australia, witnessing the Tombstones lines erupting for the first time he says solidly, “I was in awe of that wave.”
The two brown brothers, Kerby and Cortney, got pretty good egging each other on and pushing each beyond the limits, like you do when you have the waves of the north west as your backyard. Still as close as ever, 34-year-old Kerby is teaching his own son to surf between chasing down some of the craziest looking slabs the Indian Ocean has to offer.
In 2016 the Brown brothers released one mind-blowing clip, Society Unseen, showing the world just how good they are. Edge-of-your-seat cinematography, like Hollywood stuntman kinda stuff. The guys along with their mates, were dropping into what looked like dry rock slabs, but nailing the rides. “It was a pretty awesome ride. Searching for the heaviest waves we could find with a good bunch of guys, a very versatile group from cinematographers and photographers to pilots and nutcase surfers. Everyone in the group loves a good time too.” Said Kerby
Everyone shared the clip, everyone played it and you’ll probably watch it again now. We asked Kerby if we could expect more… His response? “You’ll have to wait and see.”
The three things this West Oz hell-man can’t live without revolve centrally around the themes of Society Unseen and his day-to-day life; Music, the ocean and his family & friends.
“When you share a particularly crazy session with your friends,” Says Kerby, “whether you witness them get taken down by a hideous wipeout or make the wave of their life, it’s something you don’t forget in a hurry. It’s always a good excuse to get on the beers afterwards too. It’s always good to see the boys out there having a go.”
We asked about the tips he’s learned for taking the drop on a heavy wave, to which he is certain it’s all about not holding back. “Yeah, just put your head down, it's full steam ahead. Don’t hold back. Any second thoughts and you’re going over the falls. I think Antman said something along those lines in the early Billabong challenge days. I think it’s the best advice you can give someone.”
It’s a pretty logical piece of advice but perhaps the one thing that separates surfers like the Browns from the average Joes. That no-holds-bar, all-or-nothing attitude, conquers the unimaginable. Maybe something you can take out into the lineup with you, no matter your skill level. Head down, don’t hold back.
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