Hawaiian Swell Journal, Bill Morris, Friday November 12

12 Nov 2010 0 Share



Report and photos by | Bill Morris

It’s the same every morning; forcing myself to get out of bed to get down the beach. The 3 hr time difference to Sydney is still killing me 3 days in to this season. Every day has been a little better. Not much of an increase in the size but better shape with good winds.

Driving down the Kam Highway to Starbucks I passed quite a few hire cars stacked high with massive board bags. Pro’s are filtering in fast. It’s the kick off of the first comp at Haleiwa tomorrow. The mellow-ness has disappeared and the lineups are filling up with humans all frothing to get a few Hawaiian swells under their feet. Foodland too is a hive of activity and each aisle you push your kart down you stop to say hi to people you haven’t seen for a while. That’s one of the great things about the Rock: whether it is an Aussie or Hawaiian handshake, it doesn’t matter. It’s all Aloha!

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