Solid swell lights up Pipe for the Masters
Hawaiian Swell Journal, November 21 - December 6, 2011
Words, photos and video by Anthony Walsh
The swell finally arrived in Hawaii last week, just in time for the Billabong Pipe Masters play out in classic conditions. So the video for the last journal entry is all action.
November 21 to December 6 saw a series of consistent three-to-four foot northwest swells coincide with strong trade winds. Once one swell dropped, a new one would come in.
Then, the day before the Billabong Pipeline Masters there was a large increase in swell - so much so that the swells were catching up with each, creating doubled-up, dumpy conditions.
The swell was three feet in the morning but by the afternoon there were eight-to-ten foot sets rolling through. It was pretty much unrideable because of the doubled-up swell and strong currents; the sand was really starting to move and the strong northerly winds made it very bumpy and dangerous.
The first day of the Pipe Masters waiting period saw perfect conditions as an eight-to-twelve foot northwest swell lined up with light trade winds.
The second day had flawless conditions again. The swell dropped a little to eight-to-ten foot and became more northerly, while the east-northeasterly trade winds stayed light.
The third and finally day of the event saw a decrease in size and quality. The swell was still a good six-foot plus from the north-northwest, but the northeasterly trade wind picked up.
Congratulations to newly-crowned Pipe Master Kieren Perrow, and Triple Crown winner John John Florence.
Thanks for stopping by for another Hawaii Swell Journal. See you next winter.
Aloha,
- Anthony Walsh
BONUS WIPEOUT
Whether the product of youthful abandon or a gravely over-enthusiastic miscalculation, you’ve got to give Hawaiian grom Kalani David some serious Kudos for going on this backdoor bomb. Check it out, cringe, and think about kinda waves you were claiming when you were twelve years old…
Add comments here...
Good Times On The Goldy With Brent Dorrington and Crew
There's been a few banks about...
The WSL Has a New CEO, the Volcom Pipe Pro Gets Upgraded, and Russell Bierke Is a South Coast Tube Star
This Week In Surfing: Ten Things from Surfing & the Internet on the Week That Was January 17, 2020
Good Times On The Goldy With Brent Dorrington and Crew
There's been a few banks about...
Two Electric Sessions on the Tweed Coast With the Future of Australian Surfing
Sean Doherty: Davey Cathels and the High Country Fire
Nick Carroll: "The Only Thing I Could Compare It to Is War"
Nick Carroll: The Holidays That Never Were
Two Electric Sessions on the Tweed Coast With the Future of Australian Surfing
Ethan Ewing and Liam O'Brien are on fire
Sean Doherty: Davey Cathels and the High Country Fire
“It's been a pretty strange start to the year, that’s for sure.”
Nick Carroll: "The Only Thing I Could Compare It to Is War"
A southerly saved Phil Macca’s town. But what now?
Nick Carroll: The Holidays That Never Were
Surf shop owner Kurt Nyholm is part of a community trying to recover from too much all at once
Highlights from the 2020 Burleigh Boardriders Single Fin Festival
Featuring Margo, Parko, Ethan Ewing and more...
The WSL Has a New CEO, the Volcom Pipe Pro Gets Upgraded, and Russell Bierke Is a South Coast Tube Star
This Week In Surfing: Ten Things from Surfing & the Internet on the Week That Was January 17, 2020
Sean Doherty: Davey Cathels and the High Country Fire
“It's been a pretty strange start to the year, that’s for sure.”
Mental Hawaii and Indo – the Last 18 Months Through The Lens of Ryan Williams
Four Minutes of Madness, featuring Jack Robbo, John John and more
