Solid swell lights up Pipe for the Masters
Hawaiian Swell Journal, November 21 - December 6, 2011
Words, photos and video by Anthony Walsh
The swell finally arrived in Hawaii last week, just in time for the Billabong Pipe Masters play out in classic conditions. So the video for the last journal entry is all action.
November 21 to December 6 saw a series of consistent three-to-four foot northwest swells coincide with strong trade winds. Once one swell dropped, a new one would come in.
Then, the day before the Billabong Pipeline Masters there was a large increase in swell - so much so that the swells were catching up with each, creating doubled-up, dumpy conditions.
The swell was three feet in the morning but by the afternoon there were eight-to-ten foot sets rolling through. It was pretty much unrideable because of the doubled-up swell and strong currents; the sand was really starting to move and the strong northerly winds made it very bumpy and dangerous.
The first day of the Pipe Masters waiting period saw perfect conditions as an eight-to-twelve foot northwest swell lined up with light trade winds.
The second day had flawless conditions again. The swell dropped a little to eight-to-ten foot and became more northerly, while the east-northeasterly trade winds stayed light.
The third and finally day of the event saw a decrease in size and quality. The swell was still a good six-foot plus from the north-northwest, but the northeasterly trade wind picked up.
Congratulations to newly-crowned Pipe Master Kieren Perrow, and Triple Crown winner John John Florence.
Thanks for stopping by for another Hawaii Swell Journal. See you next winter.
Aloha,
- Anthony Walsh
BONUS WIPEOUT
Whether the product of youthful abandon or a gravely over-enthusiastic miscalculation, you’ve got to give Hawaiian grom Kalani David some serious Kudos for going on this backdoor bomb. Check it out, cringe, and think about kinda waves you were claiming when you were twelve years old…
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